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'Avant garde vogue' back in France |
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July 14, 2000
PARIS(AP) - Haute couture lives! Fears of the death of this art are vanishing with classic and beautiful clothes by Yves Saint Laurent, and valiant efforts by younger newcomers, who actually sew the clothes themselves. Saint Laurent is still undisputed master. His outfits shown during the week were so breathtakingly perfect in their cut, fabrics and covetable perfection that fashion-watchers wonder why they look anywhere else. Short, swirl-skirted suits with fitted jackets, wonderful high-waisted pants with toreador-short boleros, glamorous evening gowns with all the tulle or velvet details in place. It's hard to describe perfection, but this was it. At the other end of the rainbow were the younger couturiers, some successful, others less so. The Dutch team Viktor and Rolf did a curious sonorous collection with cowbells and little bells plastered all over their dressy satin outfits. It was a ding-dong, slightly crazy moment. At the Cartier Foundation, Franck Sorbier showed a collection he'd sewed all by himself from scraps of tulle and silk found at the market. It was a homage to all the disappearing "little metiers" - from windowpane sellers who shout their wares on the street to the "little hands" who do the stitching in couture ateliers. The results sometimes looked like sweet pastel bonbons. Ji Haye, from Korea, turned in a glamorous collection of luxury clothes for women who like to look feminine. She, too, does all the work herself, and the audience liked her colorful organza scarf gowns, her scarlet opera coat over a black bustier and tubular long skirt. Jean-Paul Gaultier - still young at heart, but now establishment - was admired for his collection dedicated to Paris. The Eiffel Tower gowns and towering shoes, the sexy little fitted numbers like lean leather trousers in chocolate brown with its cognac mink bolero were typical of the intriguing, wearable styles. At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld did not make much of a fashion splash at his poolside show, but the clothes were still appealing, young and wearable. Short skirts just above the knee, great tweeds in colors like pool turquoise or raspberry, shiny wide belts to emphasize hip, waist or just under the bust: the outfits were impeccable. Puffy ruffles for cocktail or evening clothes and some sophisticated styles in slithery chiffons had a 1930s allure. Emanuel Ungaro's audience entered a cave-like space beneath the Alexandre III bridge to view his sophisticated collection. The Garbo or Dietrich-like evening wear featured amazing numbers like flesh-colored chiffon dresses with fishtail trains, embroidered elaborately with beads, jet and crystals. Valentino went in for much draping, even in short clothes. From tweeds into the popular Valentino-red evening wear, the outfits were opulent enough for his many wealthy clients. At Dior, John Galliano offered a cinematic show that veered between bondage and romance. The romance won, in a "wedding" scene notable for its subtle, very beautiful silks and satins in an Edwardian vein. Only a few can afford these clothes, but they offer inspiration in choosing ready-to-wear or telling the seamstress what to do. For fall couture, the skirts are short, just under or over the knee. Silhouettes are feminine, waist in its place - or slightly up or down with lame belts on a straight silhouette at Chanel. Jackets are fitted to the body at most houses, with great boleros at Saint Laurent. He pads out his shoulders slightly, giving nice, flattering proportions. Trousers are slightly high-waisted and straight at Saint Laurent, who does them so beautifully. But others, like Gaultier, often do very lean pants in stretch panne velvet or satin. A few flowing evening or palazzo styles look good as well. Colors go from the usual black, white, gray, tan into siena or coppery shades, brick pinks and sky blues. Greens from lichen to grassy are good. All of the reds are back in couture, from flame to Bordeaux to shrimp pink. Purples from amethyst to wisteria are pretty, with smoky shades in chiffon evening gowns. Gold, silver, brocades, baubles and beads are striking in these very rich collections, where a gorgeous, allover beaded dress can cost upwards of dlrs 100,000. Day fabrics look good in crisp flannels as at Saint Laurent or tweeds at Chanel. For evenings, think frothy tulles, slinky satins and velvets, plenty of lace and dollops of ostrich or rooster feathers. Sable, mink and fox are in for the Rolls-Royce set. |
